(Image Courtesy of Mario the Makeup Artist)
Hello everyone, I hope all is well. I am very excited on account of I am finally ready to start my freelance makeup service. I will talk more about it in my next post. Anyways, Smokey eyes were the last step in developing a skilled enough technique to do work on other people. I always had trouble creating the ideal smokey eye for myself (reasons being): I have very warm yellow based skin ( Golden Brown NC42), lighter eyes ( green), Smaller eyes ( almond shape), and lighter hair ( Golden brown with honey tones).
When trying to develop a smokey eye ( Think Kim Kardashian) I was having lots of trouble. All the grey smoke tones, I have tried over powed my eyes, and the contrast between my golden features and the grey makeup weren't positive. Grey eye makeup left my skin looking quite ashen. Here are a few types and tricks I have used to develop a great smokey eye for everyone to enjoy! Combine them to create your own custom eye look.
1. Golden/Olive Undertone Skin ( Think Mac NC): Sometimes the cooler hues suggested to create the perfect smokey eye can clash with the goldenness of the skin. While lots of folks try to downplay this attribute, I think it's the skin's natural glow. You don't want makeup to go against your facial features. You want the makeup to compliment and not compete. That being said, When doing a smokey eye on yellow undertoned skin, don't be shy to mix in Warm Brown colors. Believe it or not, Kim's makeup is rarely flat toned...and lots of neutrals are used. When I create my "go to" smokey eye, I use a touch of chocolate with lots of taupe colors. Taupe is an excellent alternative to your generic gray because it has hints of warmth. Also, a shadow with shimmer will help restore a natural glow.
I suggest: NYX Single Eyeshadow in Taupe Pearl, MAC Single Eyeshadow in Cork (Brown)
2. Cooler Undertone Skin ( Think Pinkish hues): Determining Cooler skin can be difficult because it has nothing to do with how deep your skin is. A woman with porcelain skin, and a woman with a rich chocolate brown complexion can both be cool. This gets confusing because darker tones easily mistake their skin for warm, because of their brown complexions. Brown is considered a warm color. Anywho, if you have a cool undertone, you can wear those grey smoke colors naked, by themselves, with no issues. Also, a metallic silver smoke looks lovely on cooler skin(not that other folks can't wear it)!
I Suggest: MAC Single Eyeshadow in Electra, NYX Single Eyeshadow in Dune
3.Reddish/Copper Undertone Skin: Silver also looks lovely on skin with red undertones because of the contrast, but it is a positive contrast..not like the one I explained above. I would avoid using warm colors with red undertones such as coppers, bricks, etc. It may wash out the skin. A true metallic gold smoked out with black looks really elegant.
4. Neutral Tones ( Think shades of beige): It's extremely versatile. Generic shades of greys and blacks look polished.
5. Green Eyes: Most people recommend violet smokey shades...but I would opt for a deep smokey black with hints of blue and shimmer. If your eyes aren't bluish green, and more olive, I would go for some type of wine/ burgundy shade. To bring out your eye color.
I Suggest: NYX Single Eyeshadow in Deep Space ( Blue Smoke), NYX Single Eyeshadow in Burgundy Pearl
6. Brown Eyes: Deep shades of smokey purples bring out baby browns.
I Suggest: NYX Single Eyeshadow in Deep Purple (Purple Smoke)
7. Blue eyes: Shades of deep golds smoked out with blacks and Smokey Blues
I Suggest: NYX Single Eyeshadow in Deep Space, NYX Single Eyeshadow in Utopia Gold
8. Smaller Eyes: Working with smaller eyes can be quite difficult when trying to create a smoldering look. Tips for avoiding making your eyes look smaller include: Line your waterline with a white liner pencil, to cast in light to the eyes. Use dark colors on the outer v/c, Include lighter, shimmery colors in the inner tear duct. Avoid smoking out your whole entire crease with a dark matte color, since it can make the eyes look deep set. Smoke the look out half way, instead of the whole way. Include lots of mascara, to open the eyes. When using dark colors on tiny eyes use a light, light hand. Think soft short strokes. Too much dark eye makeup can be overpowering.
9. Larger Eyes: ( Mostly very rounded) Try using dark liquid liner with a wing. This will give the illusion your eyes are more almond shaped.With larger eyes, you run the risk of your eyes with smoke makeup looking like black bruised circles. Show off the large eye shape by using dark colors throughout the crease, this intensifies the look more.
10. Almond Eyes : Try using dark liquid liner with a wing to accentuate eye shape. Avoid using smokey colors throughout the whole bottom lash line, since it makes eyes look smaller. If you must try this look out, opt for some sort of gradient fade...lighter colors towards the inner corners, dark towards the end of the eye.
I Know this post was extremely long, but hopefully it was pretty informative as well. Have a nice weekend!
Overall Smokey Eye Tip: Make sure you have very structured, "done up" Brows with smokey makeup, it will add balance to the face.
Whether in Life you need to put your game face on, your sad face on, your happy face on, your mean face on, your dream face on, or your best foot forward...Personality is an art form. Makeup is an art form. And so the two meet.